Doing the conversion
  Introduction | The Conversion | Photos | Costs | Links  

Getting started

  The basis of this conversion is the KE55 Corolla, which you can buy for very little money, I paid for mine, as it was a one owner, typical rust in back guards but otherwise straight and in average condition.  It was also a manual, which I think helps a great deal in that there is no stuffing around with pedal boxes etc.  Seeing as my car was manual to start with, this is how I will explain how to do the conversion.

  Next is the 2TG.  I found an engine, complete with points ignition, a clutch, extractors, starter motor, 1 good Weber, 1 stuffed Weber, and TA22 engine mounts, for .  These were the 2 single most expensive things in my conversion!  You will also need a T50 gearbox, which is found in the TA22 celica.  You can also use a T18 gearbox I believe, but the shifter will not come out through the existing hole in the trans tunnel.  So just buy a TA one!  I paid for mine.

  Now you have the box, engine and car, you can go about the conversion.

Getting into it

  Here is the step by step way I did my conversion, but I will also ad in things that I found I had to change/buy etc, along the way.  Not one conv. is the same, but hopefully this will still help.  I will try to cover everything I did.

  First thing is to remove the old 4k and box.  Drive the car onto some wheel ramps.  Unbolt the tailshaft from the diff.  There are 4 bolts .  Let the end of th tailshaft sit on the ground but do not pull it out of the box.  It acts as a plug to keep the oil in the box.  Next undo all the bolts holding the box to the engine.  1 or 2 of these will also hold the starter motor.  Undo these aswell.  Also unplug the reverse light sensor, Speedo cable and Clutch cable from the clutch fork.  The speedo cable simply screws into the side of the gearbox, and the clutch cable can be slipped off the clutch fork.  If it doesn't, which mine did not, just cut the thing.  You will not need it again.

  Now this is where my no responsibility clause comes into effect!  Lie on your back under the box, with the bell housing, (fattest part of box) above your chest.  undo the gearbox crossmember bolts completely.  The box will now hang from the back of the engine.  I used my legs and hands to twist and pull the boxx out of the eng./clutch.  The k box is pretty light so I just let it gently lower to my chest once it was free.  If you are a small person then a trolley jack may be a better way to do it.  Remember to still not let the tailshaft come out of the box as you will end up with oil everywhere.  I then just slid the whole lot out of the side of the car.  You may also want to remove the shifter, as it hits the rear of the tunnel hole, but I just reefed it out.

  Now remove all that is connected to the engine.  Remember to block fuel lines with a punch or the like after as you don't want stuff everywhere.  Also remove the radiator as you don't want to damage it while lifting the old engine out.  There are earth straps, heater hoses etc, and also the exhaust.  I just ripped my whole exhaust out of the car, as I was getting a new one anyway.  Once you are confident that there is nothing connected to the motor undo the engine mounts, and use a hydraulic lift/chain block to slowly lift the old engine out.  Do this slowly and keep checking to make sure you have not left anything connected to the engine.  Also watch that you don't grab brake lines etc, as you SLOWLY lift out the old donk.

  Now throw the old engine in the river. (Or  sell it to get some dosh back!)

  I did not do this, but you may also want to mark the wires that connect to the old donk, there is only a couple, oil pressure, water temp, and one that goes to the distributer.  Also remove the old water temp sensor from the engine, and the oil pressure sensor, you will need these for the 2TG.  If the 2TG comes with sensors, they will most likely not be calibrated to the KE guages.

  Now you have an empty engine bay, hit it hard with a degreaser, and leave it to dry.  That was my first day complete.  Now beer time.

  The TA22 engine mounts that bolt to the T series engine have 3 holes in them.  The centre holes in each mount are where the rubber mount studs would normally bolt through.  The two smaller holes either side of these centre holes are for locating the rubber mount whilst bolted to the mount.  What you have to do is drill out the REAR smaller holes on the TA metal mount to the same size as the centre holes.  These in essence brings the 2TG forwared in the engine bay.  These are now the holes you use to bolt the mounts to the rubber sections. You will also have to grind the little locating nib off the rubber secttion of the TA mount.  This allows the TA engine mount to sit flush on the rubber section in the modified position.  Refer to pics  to see what it should look like.

  Before you go about dropping the 2TG into the engine bay, Be sure that the clutch is aligned, and you have a spigot bearing in the rear of the engine.  I am not going to go into how to align the clutch, but I can assure you it is easy.  One way to make sure it is aligned is to slide the T50 into the back of the engine and if it goes right in, you know it is aligned.  The spigot bearing is a small bearing that the reduced end of the gearbox slpine centres into.  You can buy them cheap from repco and just tap them in with a socket of appropriate size.

  Now, the KE cross member is slotted so once you have the modified mounts bolted to the 2TG you can simply reverse the process of removing the old engine, SLOWLY lowering the new engine into the engine bay.  The new motor will not sit perfectly straight, but it is good enough.  It will sit slightly to the passenger side of the vehicle, but, like I said, we want to get it done with minimal fuss.  Now bolt the 2TG in. 

  The T50 gearbox should be drained of oil, and not have the tailshaft connected.  With the T50, if you have the TA22 box mounts, it will then bolt to the original KE gearbox crossmember.  .  There are box xmember holes located a bit further back under the car from the original ones, so the KE box crossmember will bolt to the car.  I just had to drill or slot the old holes so it lined up.  From memory i moved the existing holes in the box xmember 30-40mm one direction.  This was quite simple.

  I actually lifted the T50 complete with xmember mount off my chest and into the rear of the engine.  It is heavier than the old box so again a trolley jack may be an alternative.  Once the box slides into the engine and the shaft is located in the spigot bearing, bolt the xmember to the holes that are further back under the car.

  Now you have the gearbox and engine in the car.  I should also add that I actually removed the shifter from the T50 before putting it in.  This is because it is easier to bolt it on after.  In fact I wouldn't even try it with it connected.  Now you can bolt the tailshaft back to the diff, once you have slid it back into the T50.  Yes you can use the same tailshaft, it is the same size.  I found I had about 20mm of play between the T50 and the diff, as in thats how much the tailshaft would slide back and forth.  This is fine, but I wouldn't like to see any more play than about 30mm.

 

This site is being constructed over time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I HAVE DECIDED TO UPDATE MY SITE AND WILL BE ADDING THE FOLLOWING PARTS AS TO FINISH OFF THE PAGE AND MAKE IT MORE COMPLETE!

FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ANY THINGS THAT PEOPLE WOULD FIND INTERESTING I SHOULD PUT IN THE SITE

 

Clutch Setup:

Wiring up a fuel pump:

Accelerator cable: